BetaC wrote on 2023-01-18, 06:18:

I got a sad little 5x86-p75 today.
Someday I'll get an actually good 486 board, but before then I need to find a way to replace an entire pin.
As you can see in the top right, it's just straight broken off.

That one looks like NC pin.

Thought that, too, in the first place. But after looking up some datasheets it looks more like AHOLD which is kind of necessary for function afaik.

Found today 5 hard drives. All of them have Serial ATA interface.
The hard drives are:
-Samsung SpinPoint P120 SP2004C 200GB, 7200 RPM, 8MB cache
-Samsung SpinPoint T166 HD403LJ 400GB, 7200 RPM, 16MB cache
-Western Digital Caviar WD400BD-55JPC0 40GB, 7200 RPM, 2MB cache
-Samsung SpinPoint F1 HD250HJ 250GB, 7200 RPM, 8MB cache
-Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 80GB SATA/150 HDD, 6Y080M0, 7200 RPM, 8MB cache

Any opinions?

RetroPC_King wrote on 2023-01-18, 09:53:

Found today 5 hard drives. All of them have Serial ATA interface. The hard drives are: -Samsung SpinPoint P120 SP2004C 200GB, 72 […]
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Found today 5 hard drives. All of them have Serial ATA interface.
The hard drives are:
-Samsung SpinPoint P120 SP2004C 200GB, 7200 RPM, 8MB cache
-Samsung SpinPoint T166 HD403LJ 400GB, 7200 RPM, 16MB cache
-Western Digital Caviar WD400BD-55JPC0 40GB, 7200 RPM, 2MB cache
-Samsung SpinPoint F1 HD250HJ 250GB, 7200 RPM, 8MB cache
-Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 80GB SATA/150 HDD, 6Y080M0, 7200 RPM, 8MB cache

Any opinions?

all good to find

all brands have their reputations and their actual reliability

for individual drives if they work they generally will carry on working for a long time - especially if not moved around too much and no in extremes of temperature or humidity

though performance varies to be honest i rarely find hdd performance to be a limiting factor, especially in 7200rpm and an occasional pause to get some data is tolerable in a slower drive in my view

just never rely on older drives - back things up 😀

fool wrote on 2023-01-18, 08:03:

BetaC wrote on 2023-01-18, 06:18:

I got a sad little 5x86-p75 today.
Someday I'll get an actually good 486 board, but before then I need to find a way to replace an entire pin.
As you can see in the top right, it's just straight broken off.

That one looks like NC pin.

No it's the AHOLD pin, it needs to be resoldered.

BetaC wrote on 2023-01-18, 06:18:

I got a sad little 5x86-p75 today. IMG_1223.jpg Someday I'll get an actually good 486 board, but before then I need to find a w […]
Show full quote

I got a sad little 5x86-p75 today.
IMG_1223.jpg
Someday I'll get an actually good 486 board, but before then I need to find a way to replace an entire pin.
IMG_1224.jpg
As you can see in the top right, it's just straight broken off.

That looks like an easier one for a first try... myself, I would cut it smooth, make a short, very tiny hole with a very tiny drill, stand a wire of the right thickness in there, but not yet cut to length, leave it real long to handle easy... then silver solder it in place. Trying to leave only a small fillet of solder, tinning the wire nicely, then cut to length. Try to get sharp edges off cut so it doesn't snag and goes in easy... When inserting may need to double check that pin is going in straight and won't bend.

I would go with silver solder for it's greater mechanical strength. However it needs a hotter iron and you don't want to cook the CPU so use normal heat protection measures.

Got a nice little haul of bits recently, two reversed AT cases, a pair of slot loading Pioneer DvD Roms and a Open Box Geforce 6600 complete with all accessories, also found a 17" IBM E74 CRT locally.

Pair of reversed AT cases, will need a little cleanup work but both appear to be in good condition otherwise.

Both drives have been tested and work but both need to also be tidied up.

Didn't really need a GF6600 but this was only 20 bucks in an opened but unused state, decided to take a gamble, the IBM monitor is going to a 486 build using one of the above cases and DvD drives.

ChrisK wrote on 2023-01-18, 08:37:

Thought that, too, in the first place. But after looking up some datasheets it looks more like AHOLD which is kind of necessary for function afaik.

No, that is A27, so an address line. Nothing will work without this pin.

BitWrangler wrote on 2023-01-18, 14:56:

BetaC wrote on 2023-01-18, 06:18:

I got a sad little 5x86-p75 today. IMG_1223.jpg Someday I'll get an actually good 486 board, but before then I need to find a w […]
Show full quote

I got a sad little 5x86-p75 today.
IMG_1223.jpg
Someday I'll get an actually good 486 board, but before then I need to find a way to replace an entire pin.
IMG_1224.jpg
As you can see in the top right, it's just straight broken off.

That looks like an easier one for a first try... myself, I would cut it smooth, make a short, very tiny hole with a very tiny drill, stand a wire of the right thickness in there, but not yet cut to length, leave it real long to handle easy... then silver solder it in place. Trying to leave only a small fillet of solder, tinning the wire nicely, then cut to length. Try to get sharp edges off cut so it doesn't snag and goes in easy... When inserting may need to double check that pin is going in straight and won't bend.

I would go with silver solder for it's greater mechanical strength. However it needs a hotter iron and you don't want to cook the CPU so use normal heat protection measures.

What would be the correct thickness in this case? I would need to buy wire and silver solder to try to begin with for this, but my Hakko can definitely get up to temp.

CoffeeOne wrote on 2023-01-18, 16:54:

ChrisK wrote on 2023-01-18, 08:37:

Thought that, too, in the first place. But after looking up some datasheets it looks more like AHOLD which is kind of necessary for function afaik.

No, that is A27, so an address line. Nothing will work without this pin.

Looks like AHOLD to me too actualy (given we are looking from pin side of the CPU and not from top or a perspective of socket). But probably doesn't matter as all 4 corner pins are very important.

Just got myself an old Roland ED M-10 Mixer, so that at last i can get all the audio outputs of my computer mixed on one cable.
No PSU but works with a 9V battery.

I love the look of Roland and Yamaha equipment.

V

Today I got 4 sticks of GeIL Value DDR400 (PC3200) 512MB RAM (total 2 GB) with blue heatsinks. 2 sticks have CL2.5-8-4-4 timings and the other 2 have CL2.5-6-3-3 timings. 2 512MB RAM sticks belong to a Dual Channel Kit, and the other 2 sticks are independently.
Any opinions?

RetroPC_King wrote on 2023-01-19, 12:12:

Today I got 4 sticks of GeIL Value DDR400 (PC3200) 512MB RAM (total 2 GB) with blue heatsinks. 2 sticks have CL2.5-8-4-4 timings and the other 2 have CL2.5-6-3-3 timings. 2 512MB RAM sticks belong to a Dual Channel Kit, and the other 2 sticks are independently.
Any opinions?

They look nice. Only opinion is to temper your expectations about easily running any 4 DDR1 sticks in anything. Even with a dual channel memory controller, the spec was a bit on the edge driving 4 modules. It was only getting better shortly before DDR2 became common. Mainly it's a case of having to hand tune everything until it's happy, and re-re-re-re-running memtest86 over and over where the glitches don't show up until test 7 or 8. Single channel boards with 4 slots, they'll only take registered/buffered DDR reliably in combos above 2 modules. (If you read the manual carefully they might say 3 but not 4, but 2 is always gonna work and 3 is getting into switch and tweak and switch and tweak and wondering if crashes are software or memory again). Ppl are gonna come along and say "it's not that bad" because they got a high dice roll and everything just worked, but over a number of systems with a number of modules, you'll find the above true. You can get a few steps up the ladder by digging out a motherboard manufacturer list of qualified RAM modules, but some didn't bother to update those past what was initially available at release, so you're looking at lists of 256 MB modules. Lists of qualified RAM was more of a thing from mid DDR era. Anyhoo, I hope they treat you good for what you want to use them for.

BetaC wrote on 2023-01-18, 17:47:

What would be the correct thickness in this case? I would need to buy wire and silver solder to try to begin with for this, but my Hakko can definitely get up to temp.

That's something I don't have loaded into wetware. The pin spec should be the same for any 486 class, so whatever data sheet you first come across with mechanical specifications should tell you exactly. If I were doing it here, I'd just eyeball it from stuff lying around, maybe even use a resistor lead or something (Since it's a rare case you actually need more than a cm of wire on them, it doesn't even cost you the two cents they're worth to shorten it a bit)

Though when you get the spec, you'll probably have to cross reference a wire gauge chart to AWG or SWG size (American or Standard Wire Gauge)

Got a BP6 and a Voodoo Graphics card and took it for a spin. Also a K8N Neo2 Platinum with Opteron 165.
And some 256MB PC133 CL2 modules.

I guess this is more a warning to not visit thrift stores when you are in impulsive mode...

I brung home some junk 🤣 Yeah, that box contains a WebTV, I probably wouldn't have bought it for "real" money but it was too cheap to pass, in my head I was thinking it maybe had celeron or via epia in it and it would hack into a settop DOS thing. NOPE.. come to look it up, it's a lameass MIPs 150mhz, someone ported Doom for the challenge and there's a linux hack, but doesn't seem terribly useful. If there's even a mipsel branch of DOSbox I guess it would only manage a PC/XT game or two. The size of the case brings up ideas about gutting it and sticking an atom or pi-type machine inside though.

Second mistake I guess is that VGA card, I thought "Hey, looks like a midrange Geforce 6x00" and it is, but for a Mac G5... maybe it could be flashed... I had on my mind wanting a 6x00 based card that wasn't top end, so I need not worry about frying it just from using the darn thing, but now I've come to my senses at home I'm like "PCIe though? Really?" since I have very little need of lower end PCIe, and ideally want a 6x00 in AGP.

RAM was together in a bundle, I could see it was PC2, wasn't sure what it was until unstrapped at home, I'm always running short of PC2, anyway, there was 2 pices of 256MB, one piece of 1GB and 1 piece of 1GB special banana RAM (IDK if you can see it's bent in the pic) will probably flatten out with some weight and time. So far I had managed to avoid collecing any 256MB PC2, even think 512 is a silly size in that, but yay me, I stuck myself with some... I am told it is handy for a PC2 win98 system... so when I build my 4Ghz overclocked core2quad win98 box, there it is. Kidding of course, but do have a DDR2 board that could potentially see win98 on a top end P4. The 1GBs were kinda worth it for the price, but I was hoping they were 2s.

Drive is the actual sensible buy, I hope, LiteON shortie for a mATX build that I need a liteON drive to use a custom to case faceplate.... and not be stuck with CD only drive.

More adapters? Didn't you buy like 3 bags of that crap already I hear you ask, yeah, this one has a DVI to HDMI which is useful.

Anyway, not too much treasure lost it was about $20 all in there...

Bought this batch of CPUs recently as untested. About half of it Celerons, the other half Pentium III, two Pentium 4 and two Via Cyrix III.
Not sure if it was worth the money yet.
The main reason was beeing some QS and ES parts amongst (all Celerons, though).
Additionally got two LGA2011 Confidential Xeons E5-2648L that wheren't listed in the offer. Unfortunately both got damaged by fu..ing bad packaging (two heavy pieces of metal with their balls facing each other in some kitchen towel). People will never learn to know this...

It been quite dry out there ever since kung-flu restrictions fully lifted over a year ago. Still managed to finds some interesting stuff lately:

-32GB SSD, for which I already 3D-printed a bracket for. 10EUR Seems a little too much, considering brand new 120GB drives go for ~13Eur now, but there aren't many options for low capacity anymore and they go for ~30-40EUR.
-A bunch of 512MB CF cards. 10 for 3EUR. More DOS installations than i will ever need.
-DDR400 memory sticks with some fancy heatsinks. Forgot the price, but it was pocket-change.
-HP Pavilion T3000. Local listing for 20. The "packaging" was a garbage bag, tape and the shipping label. Still somehow arrived with no dents or broken parts. AM2+/AM3 Motherboard from Gigabyte, Athlon64 x2 3800, DDR2 memory, some basic video adapter card. I have a couple of projects I want to use it with and would likely swap out the guts completely, but I have a hard time deciding which. What era does it look like it represents more? Windows XP or Vista? It was around for both.

Munx wrote on 2023-01-20, 12:28:

It been quite dry out there ever since kung-flu restrictions fully lifted over a year ago. Still managed to finds some interesti […]
Show full quote

It been quite dry out there ever since kung-flu restrictions fully lifted over a year ago. Still managed to finds some interesting stuff lately:

-32GB SSD, for which I already 3D-printed a bracket for. 10EUR Seems a little too much, considering brand new 120GB drives go for ~13Eur now, but there aren't many options for low capacity anymore and they go for ~30-40EUR.
-A bunch of 512MB CF cards. 10 for 3EUR. More DOS installations than i will ever need.
-DDR400 memory sticks with some fancy heatsinks. Forgot the price, but it was pocket-change.
-HP Pavilion T3000. Local listing for 20. The "packaging" was a garbage bag, tape and the shipping label. Still somehow arrived with no dents or broken parts. AM2+/AM3 Motherboard from Gigabyte, Athlon64 x2 3800, DDR2 memory, some basic video adapter card. I have a couple of projects I want to use it with and would likely swap out the guts completely, but I have a hard time deciding which. What era does it look like it represents more? Windows XP or Vista? It was around for both.

I'd hazard a guess and say that it probably shipped with XP. From it's specs it would run Vista but I'd personally stick with XP.