KCompRoom2000 wrote:

So, I bought an nVidia Geforce4Ti 4200 128MB AGP video card at a price that was worth the gamble, it came today. […]
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So, I bought an nVidia Geforce4Ti 4200 128MB AGP video card at a price that was worth the gamble, it came today.

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I took the time to test it, unfortunately, it has screen artifacts, I've tried both VGA and DVI outputs and I tested the card in two different computers (which are my Dell Dimension 4600 and my Athlon 64 rig with an ASUS A8V motherboard).

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I bought this card to use as a spare for my Windows 98 build just in case I ever saw the need for an nVidia GPU (for things like table fog and 8-bit paletted textures), but it turned out to have technical difficulties. Assuming the seller will let me keep it upon refund, I wonder which area is to blame, the RAM chips, the GPU chip, or the missing pin gap on the AGP connector.

Could be the RAM but I would try to recap it first.

luckybob wrote:

...
This will be a fun LONG term project.

All your projects are long term, we're still waiting for pictures of your TRL-DLS build 🤣

Just a small joke, don't get mad.

ugg. I have one of three video cards I want to use. I also dont have a case picked out. Then a new power supply. And i should be close to done.

luckybob wrote:

Rawrl wrote:

luckybob wrote:

Driving around yesterday, spotted a garage sale, saw these in the back, and picked them up immediately for $5 a pop.

I have no real-world knowledge about tubes. I know how they work in theory but not in practice. So I will cut my teeth on these. Worst case scenario, the Crosley 656 (wood) has very nice case. So worst case scenario, I could put a new radio inside. But if anyone has any sort of guidance when it comes to these things, I'm all ears. If nothing else it will be motivation to get an o-smell-o-scope.

I have no personal experience with old tube gear, but I've always heard that you should replace all of the paper/wax capacitors before even attempting to power it up. They're all 50+ years old now, and the electrolyte is long dead. Power testing them like that is a good way to blow the tubes, especially with the voltages involved.

indeed! I had a poke around the unit. Found a schematic, a diagram of the tube locations and everything. Because of the Age, I've found this unit might have its short-wave function disabled. Apparently it was a thing in WWII to disable shortwave radio for certain people. Something to do with aliens from other countries.

This will be a fun LONG term project.

You might want to subscribe to shango066 or radiotvphononut youtube channels.

SpectriaForce wrote:

You might want to subscribe to shango066 or radiotvphononut youtube channels.

I was hoping for a suggestion like that! thank you!

I popped the little black one open. It made noise, but was obviously in need of new caps. I'll start on it first.

luckybob wrote:

Driving around yesterday, spotted a garage sale, saw these in the back, and picked them up immediately for $5 a pop.

I have no real-world knowledge about tubes. I know how they work in theory but not in practice. So I will cut my teeth on these. Worst case scenario, the Crosley 656 (wood) has very nice case. So worst case scenario, I could put a new radio inside. But if anyone has any sort of guidance when it comes to these things, I'm all ears. If nothing else it will be motivation to get an o-smell-o-scope.

Don't bring that up without using a Variac or at the very least putting an incandescent bulb *in series* with the radio's power, and of a wattage equal to or slightly higher than the radio itself. This will help test for (and prevent damage from) a short. You really want to use a Variac to bring it up to full power, slowly, over time. If you can carefully reseat all the tubes before doing this, that may be a good idea as well.

I have a 1937 GE F-107 that is amazingly sensitive and fairly selective, and that warm tube sound can't be beat.

brostenen wrote:

That is an Mitsumi single speed CD-Rom drive. Yes it is unique, the way you load it. That model was actually the first drive that I ever had. And I was stupid to sell it back in 1995. The downside of this drive is the fact that it is operating in single speed, and as far as I remember, I had a dedicated controller for the drive

2+ on the dedicated controller. There also was a Mitsumi 2-speed CD-ROM drive that required that special controller, and the drive likely won't work on a normal sound card.

Most sound cards from that time had Mitsumi and other CD-ROM interfaces. I have an OPTi card from 1996 that even still has the Mitsumi interface.

A Belkin Omniview 8-port KVM VGA/PS2/Serial

Now I just need to find a DVI KVM for a good price and I should be able to hook up all my builds when the time comes.

derSammler wrote:

Most sound cards from that time had Mitsumi and other CD-ROM interfaces. I have an OPTi card from 1996 that even still has the Mitsumi interface.

I sold mine (a long time ago) to someone who tried to get it going with a soundcard, and it didn't work for them. IIRC, the manual stated the drive was an ATAPI drive, but it wasn't...

That's why I wrote "Mitsumi interface". If it just says "CD-ROM" or something, it's IDE and not Mitsumi. The connectors are the same, but the drive will not work then. The OPTi MAD16 Pro or Oak Mozart-16 are sound cards that have a dedicated Mitsumi interface, for example.

cyclone3d wrote:

A Belkin Omniview 8-port KVM VGA/PS2/Serial

Now I just need to find a DVI KVM for a good price and I should be able to hook up all my builds when the time comes.

What do you do about audio? Hook them all up through an AV receiver? Or does this KVM magically do audio as well?

squiggly wrote:

cyclone3d wrote:

A Belkin Omniview 8-port KVM VGA/PS2/Serial

Now I just need to find a DVI KVM for a good price and I should be able to hook up all my builds when the time comes.

What do you do about audio? Hook them all up through an AV receiver? Or does this KVM magically do audio as well?

There are some kvms that also do audio, but I couldn't find any for a good price that also had serial.

I'll be using a separate switch for audio at least for the computers hooked up to this KVM.

But then I also have a question of what to use with systems that use more than stereo for audio.

Edit.. I guess I could stack 3 8 to 1 stereo switches to take care of 5.1.

Or I could use 2x 8-way A/V switches to take care of 5.1.

the last puzzle for my 99q4 computer 😀 it was very hard to find one... ibm 34gxp 27g (i skipped the 34g version).

Asus P3B-F rev 1.04 Intel 440BX
Intel Pentium III 700B
Toshiba PC100 SDRAM 8ns 64M x2
Asus V6600 32M AGP NVIDIA GeForce 256
Diamond Monster 3D II 12M PCI 3Dfx Voodoo2
Creative Sound Blaster AWE32 CT3910 ISA DSP4.13, CT1747 OPL3
Gravis Ultrasound Plug & Play 1.0 8M ISA
Creative Sound Blaster Live! CT4620 PCI
IBM Deskstar 34GXP DPTA-372730 27G IDE
HP E118405 4x4x32x CD-RW IDE
In Win IW-A500

no bad sectors, but ca 20k powerup time. it is really hot.

cyclone3d wrote:

A Belkin Omniview 8-port KVM VGA/PS2/Serial
Now I just need to find a DVI KVM for a good price and I should be able to hook up all my builds when the time comes.

Are those DE9 connectors? Thats better than the Pro version o.0. Male VGA connectors though (like the Pro version) 🙁

Received this lot in the mail today:

The CPUs were pretty much completely loose in the box, so I spent a few hours in the afternoon carefully straightening bent pins. They all fit in sockets now, mostly hassle free.

The motherboard has a barrel battery that leaked slightly onto the resistors nearby. I will remove it with a soldering iron, brush the area with vinegar and give it a thorough wash tomorrow. Hopefully there is no permanent damage to anything.

Needed it since I’m a turtles fan 😀

spiroyster wrote:

cyclone3d wrote:

A Belkin Omniview 8-port KVM VGA/PS2/Serial
Now I just need to find a DVI KVM for a good price and I should be able to hook up all my builds when the time comes.

Are those DE9 connectors? Thats better than the Pro version o.0. Male VGA connectors though (like the Pro version) 🙁

Yep, those are DB9 connectors.

Only the original series had those.

There are quite a few available on eBay right now.

The 16-port does't have them and I didn't look at the 4-port.

There are also some different KVM switches that can convert PS/2 to serial (use a PS/2 mouse and then have a PS/2 to serial converter on the PC... or I guess even on the KVM. Supposedly they don't require a serial compliant mouse either.

Isn't that the awful game that you can't finish on PC ?

Sound Blaster 16 PnP (CT2940) "real OPL3 edition". Yay! Have an AWE 32 (CT3980) currently but hate DMA clicking. This card should be much better. Also the least noise which is nice but of less concern. Found it in a lot of 5 cards on eBay yesterday.

Thanks guys for guiding me in the right direction (for me). Music Quest MPU clone is on the list for internal/external midi.