I finished my new 3D printed ATX case today.

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-28, 19:45:

I finished my new 3D printed ATX case today.

How big of a print bed do you need to print it?

douglar wrote on 2025-01-28, 12:07:

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-28, 05:12:

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Here's an update. Let me know if you like it better.

The attachment Star tech drive bay longer.png is no longer available

The attachment Startech IDE2SAT2 5.25 drive bay longer.zip is no longer available

That looks more sturdy. If you are inserting and removing drives, the extra length and screw points will help keep it in place.

After you do a couple, you might start finding ways to reduce the weight without losing strength or function.

Thanks!

I printed one of your Everything Trays and it seems pretty good. I am finding that ISA cards seem to fit in at a bit of an angle. It seems to put a bit of pressure on the edge connector, which I don't think is anywhere near enough to cause damage, but it would be more comforting if it easily sat straight up. Not sure if I somehow did something wrong, but that would be my only suggestion.

Other than that, I think it's great, and I really appreciate that it's small enough to fit on my little A1 Mini's plate. 😀

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-28, 19:45:

I finished my new 3D printed ATX case today.

Woah, dude. Yes! That looks great! I need to stop being "lazy" (damn work) and make one of those. Did you make it yourself?

That I/O panel looks like it's got some kind of texture, too. What's going on there?

douglar wrote on 2025-01-28, 21:10:

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-28, 19:45:

I finished my new 3D printed ATX case today.

How big of a print bed do you need to print it?

392x298 mm. It's very hard to avoid some lifting from the bed even with PLA because of the tension that builds up. GreenTEC Pro Carbon is the best material for it since it doesn't warp and can handle high temperatures while also printing in open printers. I printed this prototype in PLA because it's cheap.

I'm thinking of dividing it up in smaller pieces and releasing it on Cults3D.

The IO is 3D-printed and covered in aluminum tape. My Abit IS7 motherboard didn'tcome with one.

The ATX motherboard takes up nearly the full backplate. I wanted the case to be compact. It's an SFX power supply, so it'll probably be expensive to find one that can power that generation that need high power 3,3V and 5V instead of 12V.

Hi! Looks good! 🙂 Please everyone just remember that grounding/shielding is important!
Adding some cardboard with aluminium foil or using conductive paint might help.
It might seem unnecessary, but shielding isn't useless. It prevents electro magnetic interference (RFI, BCI or TVI).
That's why transparent PC "show cases" aren’t legally usable beyond demonstration purposes (show purposes).
As someone who grew up with amateur radio/CB radio I can't help but must tell everyone,
no matter if he/she likes to hear it or not. It's my duty. Sorry! 🫡

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-28, 19:45:

I finished my new 3D printed ATX case today.

Best thing is the texture on the outside of a 3d printed case matches the texture of your couch in pic #2 😀

Jo22 wrote on 2025-01-29, 14:07:

Hi! Looks good! 🙂 Please everyone just remember that grounding/shielding is important! Adding some cardboard with aluminium foil […]
Show full quote

Hi! Looks good! 🙂 Please everyone just remember that grounding/shielding is important!
Adding some cardboard with aluminium foil or using conductive paint might help.
It might seem unnecessary, but shielding isn't useless. It prevents electro magnetic interference (RFI, BCI or TVI).
That's why transparent PC "show cases" aren’t legally usable beyond demonstration purposes (show purposes).
As someone who grew up with amateur radio/CB radio I can't help but must tell everyone,
no matter if he/she likes to hear it or not. It's my duty. Sorry! 🫡

Do you hear more of this interference like on your radios than before? Things were better shielded 20 years ago in general. The radiation was probably much higher back in the old days of analog systems everywhere and the digital systems of today are less prone to interference both because of digital systems and higher frequency so it doesn't reach as far.

I only add some grounding so that static electricity discharges through ground planes instead of through USB/connectors, signal lines or expansion slots. No fun when the system reboots because I touch the IO with my USB stick.

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-29, 00:18:

I printed one of your Everything Trays and it seems pretty good. I am finding that ISA cards seem to fit in at a bit of an angle. It seems to put a bit of pressure on the edge connector, which I don't think is anywhere near enough to cause damage, but it would be more comforting if it easily sat straight up. Not sure if I somehow did something wrong, but that would be my only suggestion.

Other than that, I think it's great, and I really appreciate that it's small enough to fit on my little A1 Mini's plate. 😀

I'll take a look at it this weekend and see if I can straighten it up

Size comparison with a typical old school midi tower.

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-31, 14:05:

Size comparison with a typical old school midi tower.

How many grams of filament did you use to print that case ?

Did you pre-yellow it on purpose to give it a retro look or was it just a better price on the filament?

It uses just about 1 kg of filament. It's painted yellow after printing. I use grey PLA for a lot that wil be painted since it's easy to get good coverage.

You can download it here and have a look at everything: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/compac … 400-mm-printers

douglar wrote on 2025-01-30, 14:24:

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-29, 00:18:

I printed one of your Everything Trays and it seems pretty good. I am finding that ISA cards seem to fit in at a bit of an angle. It seems to put a bit of pressure on the edge connector, which I don't think is anywhere near enough to cause damage, but it would be more comforting if it easily sat straight up. Not sure if I somehow did something wrong, but that would be my only suggestion.

Other than that, I think it's great, and I really appreciate that it's small enough to fit on my little A1 Mini's plate. 😀

I'll take a look at it this weekend and see if I can straighten it up

A bit more detail to share. I tried it at first with just two ISA cards and had a problem. But I went back to it today with a different card as a sanity check and it fit just fine. I think the issue is with how a bracket might fit on a card.

The card on the left is a SB16 and it fits fine. The other is a GUS Classic and the bracket is more flush with the back of the card and it wants to sit at an angle. This and the other card that didn't fit right both had the bracket held on by the screw posts on the gameport. I could re-adjust the other one, but the GUS would only go so far and couldn't really fix the issue.

I can't really say how big a problem this would actually be. A quick glance at some of my other ISA cards and I'm not seeing others like the GUS. So maybe it's not something that needs tweaking.

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-27, 14:14:

"eSUN PLA-Matte Light Khaki" is as good as indistinguishable from the old computer grey. To my eyes it's a perfect match. Some c […]
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H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-12-03, 07:12:

Made a 5.25" bezel to house 2 USB connectors (Bulgin PX0843/a which can be separated from the big, round housing and plug in her […]
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Made a 5.25" bezel to house 2 USB connectors (Bulgin PX0843/a which can be separated from the big, round housing and plug in here)

Anyone in luck finding some beige PLA filament? Or is painting still the way to go.

I'll share both STL and Fusion files, if anybody wants (it could be ½-1 mm narrower, I guess - or it may be my printer not being trimmed properly.

https://www.bulgin.com/us/products/front-pane … -connector.html

"eSUN PLA-Matte Light Khaki" is as good as indistinguishable from the old computer grey. To my eyes it's a perfect match. Some cases are brighter or darker or hav yellowed but it's extremely close to my original IBM and my Aopen case shown here (which is slightly yellowed at the top only).

The 5-1/4 bays and the little 3-1/2 hard drive bay under the floppy are printed with this material:

Thanks, I'll look for that!

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-28, 05:12:

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Here's an update. Let me know if you like it better. […]
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Major Jackyl wrote on 2025-01-26, 05:42:

I like it. I would make it deeper, to use the rear screw holes and make the plane the board is on go all the way across. Going to print one of these guys later. I finally got printer fuel (been WEEKS)

douglar wrote on 2025-01-27, 00:01:

I got one too! […]
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I got one too!

I like the brass fittings, that's really nice. The honeycomb bottom is nice.

The whole thing will be a little more stable if you can extend it. I usually don't make the side walls so thick. I do stuff like this:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5LkwQCvuvwb- … -and-full-rails

I used to go to the public library to print and they had a smooth platform printer. With that one, I could get a high gloss plate if I printed face down:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1J83BClQEr9-35-bay-cover

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Here's an update. Let me know if you like it better.

The attachment Star tech drive bay longer.png is no longer available

The attachment Startech IDE2SAT2 5.25 drive bay longer.zip is no longer available

And just like that, I no longer consider CF cards: 🤣: great design! Will the adapter boot 98se?

H3nrik V! wrote on 2025-02-02, 11:07:

And just like that, I no longer consider CF cards: 🤣: great design! Will the adapter boot 98se?

Thanks!

Yep, the Startech adapters work great with Win98. I have encountered the odd motherboard that doesn't like it (normally pre-pentium), and other than that the only real complication is that SSDs are usually larger, so you'll be more likely to run into BIOS limitations if you don't have a patched BIOS or use XT-IDE.

I guess I should post mine somewhere, does the same thing but for a 3,5" bay (external or internal) 😀

I printed a retro styled ITX case this weekend. It looks great and is pretty small. I can't take credit for the model, it was remeshed by Retro Frog at printables. I did mod the back panel to fit a standard ITX IO and a few other changes not shown in this pic. I'm still working out details and waiting on parts.