Is it just me or do AGP cards have a sharper taper on the slot side?

red_avatar wrote on 2024-12-10, 09:54:

I've designed a stackable box for floppies since I have hundreds of them and wanted a better way to store them than those old pl […]
Show full quote

I've designed a stackable box for floppies since I have hundreds of them and wanted a better way to store them than those old plastic boxes. This system allows unlimited stacking and uses relatively little filament:

If anyone wants the STL or 3MF lemme know.

Those look pretty nice, I'd be interested in the STL..

"3DHoJor Matte PLA Filament 1.75mm" is a very nice beige

I make a lot of 3D printed stuff. I've designed several drive bays and cases. I've designed mostly ITX-cases for modern hardwware that resemple old Wedge computers but am working on an ATX case now for my P4 system.

Lots of free and paid things for sale on my Cults3D profile. Example: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/itx-s … case-tahustvedt

My current ATX case project. Designed to be super compact and minimalist.

I use eSUN PLA-Matte Light Khaki filament to match the old IBM grey. It's a perfect match.

As I worked through the AGP & PCIE, I realized that:

1. AGP & PCI cards have tabs for stands that work better than mounting on the contacts
2. PCIE cards are often heavier cards that need better support or the mount points start breaking off
3. Stands with big flat bases use a lot of plastic, are prone to misprint, & hard to lift from the printing pad
4. Needed to improve support for double width cards

So here's the new batch. Might be a little tweaking over the next few days, but pretty much done at this point:

ISA/VLB Card Stand:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/16pMpNOqcl8- … d-stand-30-gram
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6919767

PCI Card Stand:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iYex3uzUq3u- … d-stand-23-gram
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6919775

AGP Card:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5mAiN2849sr- … d-stand-25-gram
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6919778

PCIE Card Stand:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gHMSxvgj37Y- … d-stand-36-gram
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6919789

edit -- Lol! First cards I tried to put in a PCI rack were a sawed off PCI sound card that wa 4 mm shorter and an ASUS sound riser that looks like PCI if you are dyslexic. Looks like I need to spin another batch.

I'll share my post for Dell Optiplex 466 drive rails:
Dell OptiPlex 466LE 5.25" drive rails

Full res photos are in the original thread

wbahnassi wrote on 2025-01-20, 14:13:

I'll share my post for Dell Optiplex 466 drive rails:
Dell OptiPlex 466LE 5.25" drive rails

Full res photos are in the original thread

Nice! Those look like they'll fit my Optiplex GM5100, too. I already made some, but I'll confirm that these probably fit a LOT of Optiplex(s) from that era.

Glad to hear that Major Jackyl 👍

I can see a need for a combined AGP and PCI rack.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/3RvonBX0PrR- … -pci-combo-rack

Some old ISA SCSI cards needed a deeper cut out between the 8bit and the 16 bit

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/16pMpNOqcl8- … d-stand-30-gram

Got a 3D printer for Christmas and just learning how to design stuff. I think I've seen something like this before, but I can't find anything now, so I tried to design something myself. Since I'm new to all of this, I assume I could have done things better and I'm open to suggestions.

It's specifically for the Startech IDE2SAT2. I sized the holes on the sides for M3 heat set inserts that are 4mm deep. And if anyone makes one, be careful when removing the supports from the clips. I wanted them to be thin enough to flex for getting the adapter in, but I'd guess they could snap relatively easily. It probably looks like the drive sticks out a lot, but I think it's about right for trying to get a proper grip on it to pull it out.

But yeah, I'd love to hear what people think.

Oh, and I followed Lnyxman's advice and got the eSUN matte PLA Light Khaki, and it's just about perfect. It would be nice if it wasn't quite so matte, but it's a minor thing.

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-26, 05:11:

Got a 3D printer for Christmas and just learning how to design stuff. I think I've seen something like this before, but I can't […]
Show full quote

Got a 3D printer for Christmas and just learning how to design stuff. I think I've seen something like this before, but I can't find anything now, so I tried to design something myself. Since I'm new to all of this, I assume I could have done things better and I'm open to suggestions.

The attachment IMG_1406.JPEG is no longer available

The attachment IMG_1407.JPEG is no longer available

The attachment IMG_1409.JPEG is no longer available

It's specifically for the Startech IDE2SAT2. I sized the holes on the sides for M3 heat set inserts that are 4mm deep. And if anyone makes one, be careful when removing the supports from the clips. I wanted them to be thin enough to flex for getting the adapter in, but I'd guess they could snap relatively easily. It probably looks like the drive sticks out a lot, but I think it's about right for trying to get a proper grip on it to pull it out.

But yeah, I'd love to hear what people think.

Oh, and I followed Lnyxman's advice and got the eSUN matte PLA Light Khaki, and it's just about perfect. It would be nice if it wasn't quite so matte, but it's a minor thing.

The attachment Startech IDE2SAT2 5.25 drive bay.zip is no longer available

I like it. I would make it deeper, to use the rear screw holes and make the plane the board is on go all the way across. Going to print one of these guys later. I finally got printer fuel (been WEEKS)

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-26, 05:11:

Got a 3D printer for Christmas and just learning how to design stuff. I think I've seen something like this before, but I can't find anything now, so I tried to design something myself. Since I'm new to all of this, I assume I could have done things better and I'm open to suggestions.

I got one too!

I like the brass fittings, that's really nice. The honeycomb bottom is nice.

The whole thing will be a little more stable if you can extend it. I usually don't make the side walls so thick. I do stuff like this:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5LkwQCvuvwb- … -and-full-rails

I used to go to the public library to print and they had a smooth platform printer. With that one, I could get a high gloss plate if I printed face down:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1J83BClQEr9-35-bay-cover

Introducing the Everything Tray!!!!

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/ixiW4imXIO5- … g-rack-54-grams

It is a little heavier, but also a little sturdier, and card don't fall into the middle as much.

It takes up to 8 cards that can be any combination of ISA, VLB, PCI, AGP, or PCI-E

It does AGP, ISA, PCI-E really well.

VLB cards that are missing the center can be a little loose. PCI can be a little loose.

One of the ISA slots is modified to handle those wacky backwards pci audio risers.
Does reasonable well on old cards with strange or kissing brackets.

H3nrik V! wrote on 2024-12-03, 07:12:

Made a 5.25" bezel to house 2 USB connectors (Bulgin PX0843/a which can be separated from the big, round housing and plug in her […]
Show full quote

Made a 5.25" bezel to house 2 USB connectors (Bulgin PX0843/a which can be separated from the big, round housing and plug in here)

Anyone in luck finding some beige PLA filament? Or is painting still the way to go.

I'll share both STL and Fusion files, if anybody wants (it could be ½-1 mm narrower, I guess - or it may be my printer not being trimmed properly.

https://www.bulgin.com/us/products/front-pane … -connector.html

"eSUN PLA-Matte Light Khaki" is as good as indistinguishable from the old computer grey. To my eyes it's a perfect match. Some cases are brighter or darker or hav yellowed but it's extremely close to my original IBM and my Aopen case shown here (which is slightly yellowed at the top only).

The 5-1/4 bays and the little 3-1/2 hard drive bay under the floppy are printed with this material:

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-27, 14:14:

"eSUN PLA-Matte Light Khaki" is as good as indistinguishable from the old computer grey. To my eyes it's a perfect match.

It indeed is. Using this filament already for some time. Created a couple 5.25" bays a couple of days ago for some zip drives. Still need to install them in two pc's but as can be seen from the photo it's an exact match. If you use a fine textured plate and print face down you get the same texture as the zip drive itself.

Lynxman wrote on 2025-01-27, 14:14:

"eSUN PLA-Matte Light Khaki" is as good as indistinguishable from the old computer grey. To my eyes it's a perfect match. Some cases are brighter or darker or hav yellowed but it's extremely close to my original IBM and my Aopen case shown here (which is slightly yellowed at the top only).

Sweet, I ordered 2kg. eSun isn't the best filament but colour trumps quality in this case.

Major Jackyl wrote on 2025-01-26, 05:42:

I like it. I would make it deeper, to use the rear screw holes and make the plane the board is on go all the way across. Going to print one of these guys later. I finally got printer fuel (been WEEKS)

douglar wrote on 2025-01-27, 00:01:

I got one too! […]
Show full quote

I got one too!

I like the brass fittings, that's really nice. The honeycomb bottom is nice.

The whole thing will be a little more stable if you can extend it. I usually don't make the side walls so thick. I do stuff like this:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/5LkwQCvuvwb- … -and-full-rails

I used to go to the public library to print and they had a smooth platform printer. With that one, I could get a high gloss plate if I printed face down:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1J83BClQEr9-35-bay-cover

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Here's an update. Let me know if you like it better.

danieljm wrote on 2025-01-28, 05:12:

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Here's an update. Let me know if you like it better.

The attachment Star tech drive bay longer.png is no longer available

The attachment Startech IDE2SAT2 5.25 drive bay longer.zip is no longer available

That looks more sturdy. If you are inserting and removing drives, the extra length and screw points will help keep it in place.

After you do a couple, you might start finding ways to reduce the weight without losing strength or function.