VOGONS


First post, by fix_metal

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Hello everyone,
I've got this old beauty since I was a kid. For whatever the reason many years ago one of the speaker output channels went mute. My father did try a jack replacement, but it was a KO.
Since I've been restoring my old 486 lately I've decided to have a look at it. Based on some net search I've swapped in the 2 470uF caps, and since the original jack has long gone missing, I've been putting a new one, but so far no luck.

By looking at any IC I don't see any burns, cracks, missing pins. No bad caps either (also the 2 470uF were looking good to be fair). The speakers don't scratch while turning the volume knob: it seems the channel is just ko.

Ang idea of what this may be?

Thanks anyone.

Reply 1 of 11, by kaebeez

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It's worth a shot reflowing the main ICs and the TEA2025B stereo amplifier. There's always a chance that over time a marginal connection on a leg has come loose or has developed a cracked solder joint.

Reply 2 of 11, by fix_metal

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kaebeez wrote on 2024-11-30, 09:44:

It's worth a shot reflowing the main ICs and the TEA2025B stereo amplifier. There's always a chance that over time a marginal connection on a leg has come loose or has developed a cracked solder joint.

Just finish reflowing everything up, nothing changed unfortunately. Thanks for the tip.

Reply 3 of 11, by Thermalwrong

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fix_metal wrote on 2024-11-30, 22:05:
kaebeez wrote on 2024-11-30, 09:44:

It's worth a shot reflowing the main ICs and the TEA2025B stereo amplifier. There's always a chance that over time a marginal connection on a leg has come loose or has developed a cracked solder joint.

Just finish reflowing everything up, nothing changed unfortunately. Thanks for the tip.

Could you post a picture of the card? There are lots of points where the sound output could fail and it could be something as simple as a jumper missing potentially.

If you've got a multimeter you could check those two ferrite beads to make sure they both have continuity. Also while I don't know what caps they'd be on the CT1600, on the CT1350 which has a similar audio output there are two smaller 4.7uF capacitors that the audio signal goes through, might be worth checking those.

The attachment ct1350-audio-output-path.png is no longer available

Which of the channels is not working? Left or right?

Reply 4 of 11, by RetroPCCupboard

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I will watch with interest, as I have a CT1600 with the same issue

Reply 5 of 11, by fix_metal

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Thanks guys,
These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. But I will check as well.

The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0000.jpg is no longer available
The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0001.jpg is no longer available

Reply 6 of 11, by PCIe_awe64_gold

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I've also got a CT2600 with a dead right channel. A common fault with these?

Reply 8 of 11, by Thermalwrong

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fix_metal wrote on 2024-12-04, 09:22:
Thanks guys, These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. […]
Show full quote

Thanks guys,
These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. But I will check as well.

The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0000.jpg is no longer available
The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0001.jpg is no longer available

From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right channels are connected directly to ground. If they are then try cleaning up the solder holes on the back of the card with some isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

Something I'm not understanding from your picture is where the sound is hooked up to on the speaker jack? Check out this page, the audio signals run through two jumpers and you could potentially run the wires to that instead which should be easier to solder to: http://insight.actapricot.org/insight/common/ … in/soundbla.htm

Try like this instead:

The attachment sb-pro-jack-wiring.png is no longer available

Reply 9 of 11, by fix_metal

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Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-12-16, 23:00:
From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right […]
Show full quote
fix_metal wrote on 2024-12-04, 09:22:
Thanks guys, These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. […]
Show full quote

Thanks guys,
These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. But I will check as well.

The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0000.jpg is no longer available
The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0001.jpg is no longer available

From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right channels are connected directly to ground. If they are then try cleaning up the solder holes on the back of the card with some isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

Something I'm not understanding from your picture is where the sound is hooked up to on the speaker jack? Check out this page, the audio signals run through two jumpers and you could potentially run the wires to that instead which should be easier to solder to: http://insight.actapricot.org/insight/common/ … in/soundbla.htm

Try like this instead:

The attachment sb-pro-jack-wiring.png is no longer available

Wow, piece of cake.
Seems likely my dad, who tried to fix the card upfront as far back as (iirc) ~1997 traced vias wrong with his multimeter, hence connected the wrong pinpoint. I would assume the jack was faulty back then, and when he tried to replace it he cooked the pads for it, then tried to remediate by tracing back vias the best way he could, and he ended up wrong. I simply replied his mistake.

By simply wiring the new jack to the supposed-to-be-jumpers location as you suggested, worked!

I'm quite excited this has come back to life 😀)))

Thanks a lot folks!

Reply 10 of 11, by Thermalwrong

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fix_metal wrote on 2024-12-22, 15:26:
Wow, piece of cake. Seems likely my dad, who tried to fix the card upfront as far back as (iirc) ~1997 traced vias wrong with h […]
Show full quote
Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-12-16, 23:00:
From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right […]
Show full quote
fix_metal wrote on 2024-12-04, 09:22:
Thanks guys, These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. […]
Show full quote

Thanks guys,
These are the best shots I have right now, and won't be able to check on the card for some time in the next days. But I will check as well.

The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0000.jpg is no longer available
The attachment IMG-20241130-WA0001.jpg is no longer available

From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right channels are connected directly to ground. If they are then try cleaning up the solder holes on the back of the card with some isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

Something I'm not understanding from your picture is where the sound is hooked up to on the speaker jack? Check out this page, the audio signals run through two jumpers and you could potentially run the wires to that instead which should be easier to solder to: http://insight.actapricot.org/insight/common/ … in/soundbla.htm

Try like this instead:

The attachment sb-pro-jack-wiring.png is no longer available

Wow, piece of cake.
Seems likely my dad, who tried to fix the card upfront as far back as (iirc) ~1997 traced vias wrong with his multimeter, hence connected the wrong pinpoint. I would assume the jack was faulty back then, and when he tried to replace it he cooked the pads for it, then tried to remediate by tracing back vias the best way he could, and he ended up wrong. I simply replied his mistake.

By simply wiring the new jack to the supposed-to-be-jumpers location as you suggested, worked!

I'm quite excited this has come back to life 😀)))

Thanks a lot folks!

Soldering was tough back then, temperature controlled soldering irons were rarer and more expensive so most of my attempts to solder PCB stuff in the early 2000s resulted in burnt pcb quite often.

It's great you have it working again 😀 I'm really glad it's not a more serious fault with the audio outputs

Reply 11 of 11, by fix_metal

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Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-12-22, 16:33:
fix_metal wrote on 2024-12-22, 15:26:
Wow, piece of cake. Seems likely my dad, who tried to fix the card upfront as far back as (iirc) ~1997 traced vias wrong with h […]
Show full quote
Thermalwrong wrote on 2024-12-16, 23:00:
From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right […]
Show full quote

From how the soldering looks around that replaced jack, first thing I would check with a multimeter is whether the left or right channels are connected directly to ground. If they are then try cleaning up the solder holes on the back of the card with some isopropyl alcohol and a Q-tip.

Something I'm not understanding from your picture is where the sound is hooked up to on the speaker jack? Check out this page, the audio signals run through two jumpers and you could potentially run the wires to that instead which should be easier to solder to: http://insight.actapricot.org/insight/common/ … in/soundbla.htm

Try like this instead:

The attachment sb-pro-jack-wiring.png is no longer available

Wow, piece of cake.
Seems likely my dad, who tried to fix the card upfront as far back as (iirc) ~1997 traced vias wrong with his multimeter, hence connected the wrong pinpoint. I would assume the jack was faulty back then, and when he tried to replace it he cooked the pads for it, then tried to remediate by tracing back vias the best way he could, and he ended up wrong. I simply replied his mistake.

By simply wiring the new jack to the supposed-to-be-jumpers location as you suggested, worked!

I'm quite excited this has come back to life 😀)))

Thanks a lot folks!

Soldering was tough back then, temperature controlled soldering irons were rarer and more expensive so most of my attempts to solder PCB stuff in the early 2000s resulted in burnt pcb quite often.

It's great you have it working again 😀 I'm really glad it's not a more serious fault with the audio outputs

Yea, I don't blame dad for this. I've been using like forever his pencil soldering iron, pretty slim and nice compared to many others I've used, but too big/hot when it comes to tiny little stuff.